“We love cooking together. Before we had our restaurant, we often entertained at home,” says Laurence Théberge, one half of the new Claire Jacques restaurant. This feeling of arriving at the home of friends is precisely what the couple of friendly owners, newly installed at the corner of Saint-Denis and Jarry streets, are aiming for.
The other half of the very small team, Philippe Guilbault, is more into service and sommelier work. But in his free time, he helps his sweetheart in the kitchen. Former production space of the late National Dinette, the kitchen is almost as large as the dining room which is of a very good size, even if the tandem limits the places to around twenty. For the moment, the owners only want to run the house as a couple, a bit like Patrice Demers and Marie-Josée Beaudoin, from Sabayon.
The star pastry chef and sommelier played an important role in Laurence’s life. The one that now stands on its own two feet opened and then closed Patrice Pâtissier, in Little Burgundy. She started in the dining room and then moved to the kitchen. Eight years of loyal service.
But Claire and Jacques are probably the ones who left the biggest mark on the young woman. It was his maternal grandparents, who loved bringing people together around the table. “Claire showed me how to bake my first cakes, biscuits, etc., and Jacques taught me history and curiosity, among other things,” says the chef to watch. There are also old-fashioned elements in the decor which succeed (almost!) in making us forget that the room is a large rectangle with a lack of divisions.
The culinary personality that Laurence has developed over time is resolutely hybrid, sweet and savory, often on the same plate. For example, lovage coexists with strawberry tart in a seasonal dessert. A vinegary blackcurrant mousse accompanies asparagus sprinkled with salty granola. Sea buckthorn and nduja (spicy spreadable cold meats) combine with tomatoes in another dish.
The “to share” formula is preferred here, even when it comes to “snacks” (gougères, nuts, mini frozen sandwiches). The schedule – opening from 2 p.m. from Wednesday to Saturday – favors afternoon snacks and aperitifs, whether the latter is a pre-meal or a dinner.
Claire Jacques wants to attract as diverse a neighborhood clientele as possible. Single people also have two pretty little quiet reading corners. Strollers have space to park. Couples can obviously have their one-on-one time and customers wanting more interaction can sit at the bar.
Philippe, whose previous position was that of maître d’hôtel at Mastard, after stints at Hélicoptère and Pastaga, in particular, maintains a beautiful wine list, stocked with artisanal gems. He also prepares very original cocktails, such as an amaretto sour with sea buckthorn.
“What we like is introducing customers to products: lovage, haskap, sea buckthorn, radish tops, etc. », concludes Laurence.
